Trekking in Peru

Introduction ixPART ONE G ENERAL INFORMATION 1Chapter 1 B ackground Information 3History 3, People: past and present 6, Language 11Chapter 2 N atural History and Conservation 17Geology 17, Geography 18, Climate 19, Flora 20,Fauna 25, Protected areas of Peru 35, Fieldguides 42Chapter 3 Practical Information 45When to visit 45, Backpacking or organisedtrekking? 49, Tour operators 50, Touristinformation 51, Red tape 52, Getting there andaway 52, What to take 53, Money and budgeting 59,Getting around 61, Accommodation 63, Eatingand drinking 65, Handicrafts 70, Photography 71,Media and communications 72, Business 74,Volunteering and giving something back 74Chapter 4 B ackpacking and Trekking: Deciding What's Best for You 77Where to go: an overview 77, Backpacking ortrekking? 80, Organised trekking: choosing theright company 80, Trekking: the experience 82,Backpacking: the experience 86, Village etiquettefor independent backpackers 91, Minimumimpact 93Chapter 5 H ealth and Safety 96Health 96, Safety 107PART TWO TR EKKING AND BACKPACKING GUIDE 113Chapter 6 Lima 115History 115, Getting there and away 115, Gettingaround 119, Where to stay 121, Where to eatand drink 122, Entertainment and nightlife 124,Useful addresses 125, Tourist information 127,Maps 128Chapter 7 Cajamarca and Chachapoyas Regions 129Cajamarca town and region 129, Cumbe Mayoto San Pablo 133, The Chachapoyas region 136,Exploring the ruins around Chachapoyas 139, Thewaterfalls 146Chapter 8 T he Cordilleras: Negra, Blanca and Huayhuash 151The cordilleras: an overview 151, Parque NacionalHuascaran 154, Huaraz 158, Caraz 166, Trekkingand backpacking overview 167, Trekking routesin the Cordillera Blanca 171, Trekking in theCordillera Huayhuash 198Chapter 9 T he Central Andes 211Huancayo 211, The Cordillera Central 217, Otherplaces of interest in the region 221, Trekking theInca Royal Road: Castillo via Huanuco Viejo toYanahuanca 224Chapter 10 Cusco and the Vicinity 231History of the Incas 231, Cusco 233, Hiking,trekking and backpacking 251, Hiking routesaround Cusco 254, The Valley of Lares 271,Ollantaytambo and around 278Chapter 11 T he Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota 283The Vilcabamba region 283, Aguas Calientes(Machu Picchu Pueblo) 285, The Inca Trail 290,Salkantay hikes 298, Other treks in the CordilleraVilcabamba 310, The Vilcanota region 321Chapter 12 T he Arequipa Area 343Arequipa 343, Climbing the volcanoes 350, TheColca Canyon 354, Trekking in the ColcaCanyon 357Appendix 1 Language 362Appendix 2 List of Major hikes and treks 364index 369